I was invited to a soft opening at the new Zuma restaurant on the Miami river. Located at the bottom floor of the Epic hotel this restaurant is part of an international chain with select locations in London, Hong Kong, Istanbul and Dubai.
As you come close to the door from the hotel lobby the sweet smell of Hibachi grilled beef hits your nose with an inviting scent. If I had to create a term to describe the door and the general decor it would be Japanese-rustic mixed with an open, ultra modern kitchen and Sushi station.
The outside is clearly visible through the floor to ceiling glass wall that stretches from end of the restaurant to the other. Outside seating was not yet available as work on the area is in progress.
My party of six tried several cocktails including a Pink Mojito, made with Tequila instead of Rum, the Ama Mizu, a watermelon flavored drink made with Sake and a Rhubarb and Lemon Vodka based creation. While all were light and pleasant the Ama Mizu deserves a special note as every sip felt like a nice cool bite of fresh watermelon with a hint of alcohol mixed in for good measure. Watch out for this one; it is way too easy to have a few too many.
We started to dine with lightly steamed Edamame served in wooden bowles with shavings of sea salt; it was well executed and along with an order of Cucumber rolls gave the sushi chefs time to prepare the Tuna Tataki that followed. The tuna was of high quality, seared very briefly and served with mashed ginger in its natural, yellow-tinted color.
An almost flat piece of cold slate followed with pieces of Sea bass Sashimi on it. What appeared to be a light chilli-Ponzu dressing was sprinkled on the fish along with pieces of Japanese Scallion. While the texture of Sea bass was not to everyone's liking, I enjoyed its robust feel and amazing flavor. I guess some people don't like their food biting back. Small gobs of freshly grated real Wasabi were gentle enough to put right on top of the fish, no need to dissolve in Soy Sauce.
Our English server soon returned with a long and narrow plate featuring cubes of herb-crusted, lightly-fried Tofu. It is in the nature of this food to take up any flavor; the mind that came up with this herb crust is a brilliant one...pure success even with self-professed "Tofu Haters."
Spicy Tuna Rolls followed by Spicy Yellowtail Rolls landed in dark sushi trays. The fish were fresh and of high quality and the spicy mayo freshly made, light and cool. The Prawn Tempura roll that followed featured toasted sesame and came on a sqaure tray; this one did not last long.
The manager stopped by to let us know that this was the night they pushed the kitchen from 100 to 170 dinners served and wanted to know how everything was executed. No one had anything bad to say at this point and we moved on to hot dishes; first to land was an order of Sweet Corn. The corn was chopped into 1 inch pieces, rolled in a sweet ginger butter and grilled on the Hibachi, This produced bite-size morsels of sweet heaven that everyone enjoyed, quite the pallet cleanser.
What the folks at Zuma call Spicy Beef appeared next. In fact, the pounded Petit Fillets were more sweet than spicy and covered with toasted sesame. The meat was cut into 1/2 inch squares, bite-sized and very tender.
The next dish was another winner, Sweet Black Cod served on banana leaves. Wow, talk about getting it right; the fish was flaky and light, the taste sweet and a bit tangy, amazing. I could eat this as a starter, main dish or dessert and be happy. Someone please get me the recipe for the sauce.
Finally we were served a Mushroom Hotpot which was the low point of the meal and especially disappointing after the amazing dishes that came before it. Small clay pots were brought to the table with rice and mixed mushrooms in them. The flavor was quite off which lead me to guess that one of the line cooks grabbed a fist full of the wrong spice, Tarragon I believe, and throw it into the rice. Somehow this got by the Executive Chef and to our table.
We finished the evening with 3 desserts, a Yuzu Lime Pie, A Grean Tea & Banana Bread Pudding and a Gooey Chocolate mini-cake with Vanilla ice-cream. The Yuzu Lime Pie was cool, refreshing and with its citrus tang, quite cleansing for tired pallets. The molten chocolate streams that came out of the little cake mixed well with the ice-cream and formed a rich, velvety creation. I could have done without the Bread Pudding as it was too dense and heavy; however, opinions around the table were split on this one.
We spent two and a half hours at the table which was a lot for my back considering the low height of the seat backs. The sound system, delivered by a company called TechnoSystems, LLC. delivered crisp music but the massive glass wall, although visually very appealing, amplified the room to volume levels that are a bit high for me.
Total of bill $81.32 per person, $487.92 total without taxes (10%) or tip. Extra charge for hotel valet $10.00 plus tip
ZUMA Conclusions:
-Looks great, the location, interior design and view are all stunning; food & drinks are visually appealing.
-Sound is great, TechnoSystems did a wonderful job, however, some acoustical treatment might be called for to reduce overall audio levels
-Food is fresh, tasty, smells good and well suited to American taste buds; do not expect a strong, authentic, Japanese experience but rather a gentle, breezy dinning adventure.
-Value - Expect to spend over $100.00 per person when taxes and tips are accounted for even if you are not much of a drinker. With the location, view and quality of food this is not a bad deal.
Finally, ZUMA smells good, if you are in Miami plan a visit. Check out www.zumarestaurant.com for more information.